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Table of Contents
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1. POLISHED INTERIOR STONE
1.1 Description
1.2 Uses
1.3 Normal Maintenance
1.4 Maintenance Problems - Prevention and Cures
2. HONED INTERIOR STONE
2.1 Description
2.2 Uses
2.3 Normal Maintenance
2.4 Maintenance Problems - Prevention and Cures
3. STONE FLOORS
3.1 Description
3.2 Uses
3.3 Normal Maintenance
3.4 Maintenance Problems - Prevention and Cures
3.5 Special Conditions and Procedures
4. EXTERIOR STONE
4.1 Description
4.2 Uses
4.3 Normal Maintenance
5. SPECIALTY FINISHES
5.1 Description
5.2 Uses
5.3 Normal Maintenance
6. SPECIAL CLEANING PROCEDURES
6.1 General
Poultice Method
6.2 Description
6.3 Uses
6.4 Execution
7. STAIN REMOVAL
7.1 General
7.2 Execution -
Organic Stains
7.3 Execution -
Metallic Stains
7.4 Execution -
Oil and Grease Stains
7.5
Execution - Paint and Paint-Stain Removal
8. COUNTERTOPS - Special Care: Granite
9. COUNTERTOPS - Special Care: Marble
10. COUNTERTOPS - Special
Care: Limestone
11. COUNTERTOPS - Special Care: Travertine
12. COUNTERTOPS - Special Care: Soapstone
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1. POLISHED
INTERIOR STONE
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1. 1 Description |
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Polished stone has a glossy
surface that reflects light and emphasizes the color and marking of the
material. |
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1.2 Uses |
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Polished interior stone has
traditionally appeared as wall veneer. It is also seen in the form of furniture
and desk tops, counter and lavatory tops, tables, and other items of designer
quality, as well as tiles for commercial and residential installation. |
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1.3 Normal
Maintenance |
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Normal 'Housekeeping'
maintenance involves only periodic washing with clean, potable water and
neutral(pH-7) cleaners. 'Soapless" cleaners are preferred because they minimize
streaking and filming. However, mild phosphate-free, biodegradable liquid
dish-soaps, soapflakes or powders which contain no aromatics are acceptable if
rinsing is thorough.
Stone surfaces should be first wetted with clean, hot(not boiling) water. Then,
using the cleaner solution(following manufacture's directions), wash in small
overlapping sweeps, from bottom-up if a vertical surface.
Rinse throughly with clean, potable water to remove all traces of soap or
cleaner solution. Change the water in the rinse pail frequently. Dry with soft
cloth or cotton-flannel, and allow to thoroughly air-dry. Chamois skin may be
used in lieu of cotton cloth in this process.
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Note that any flooring
surface, regardless of how it is finished, is slippery when wet. Care should be
taken to promptly remove liquids or foreign materials that might result in
safety hazards before permitting pedestrian traffic.
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1.4 Maintenance
Problems - Prevention and Cures |
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Generally, prevention will
save a great deal of time spent on cures and remedies, especiallly since
damages to stone are often irreparable.
Polished stone should receive the same care and consideration that is given a
fine wood finish. Spills of any type should be immediately removed and
water-rinsed. Coasters should be placed under all glasses, particularly those
containing liquors or citrus juices. Hot-plates should be used under citrus
juices. Hot-plates should be used under heated dishes. And, place-mats or felt
bottoms should be placed under china, caramios, silver and bric-a-brac to
prevent scratching of polished finishes.
See Section "STAIN REMOVAL", for cases
where nominal care and cleaning procedures have not been followed. |
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2. HONED
INTERIOR STONE
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2.1 Description |
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A honed finish is a satin
smooth surface with relatively little light reflection.
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2.2 Uses |
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Generally, a honed finish is
preferred for floors, treads, thresholds and other pedestrian traffic locations
where heavy traffic would wear off a polished finish.
As a rule, honed finishes are more susceptible to soiling then polished
finishes, because a honed surface is slightly more porous and absorptive than a
polished finish. However, the honed finish is easier to restore because it will
sustain harsher cleaning efforts. |
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2.3 Normal
Maintenance |
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Normal 'Housekeeping'
maintenance of a honed finish involves as-needed washing with clean, potable
water and neutral(pH-7), mildly abrasive other thick liquid cleaners and
chlorine-bleach type scouring powders are ideal for this purpose. Simply mix in
clean water according to manufacturer's directions.
Caution:
Bleach should not be used on dark colored stones because it may lighten their
color.
Surfaces should be first wetted with hot, clean water. Then, using a mildly
abrasive, alkaline cleaner and a medium bristle brush, wash in overlapping,
swirling strokes. Suds build-up can be left to stand for several minutes to
permit the bleaching agents to work on stains and dirts. On vertical surfaces,
always work from bottom-to top.
Rinse thoroughly then wipe dry with cotton, cotton flannel, burlap, or chamois
skin. Wipe well to avoid streaks.
If further cleaning is needed, make a paste to the consistency of syrup using a
mildly abrasive alkaline cleaning powder and clean, potable water. Apply the
paste uniformly over the surface with a broad brush and allow to stand until
dry. Then, use a medium bristle brush with additional water and scrub the
surface vigorously(Additional cleaning powder may be added at this point).
Rinse thoroughly and dry as described above.
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2.4 Maintenance
Problems - Preventions and Cures |
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For honed stone used on
furniture tops and the like, follow care practices as described at 'Maintenance
Problems - Preventions and Cures' for 'POLISHED INTERIOR
STONE', above.
Note that any flooring surface,
regardless of how it is finished, is slippery when wet. Care should be taken to
promptly remove liquids or foreign materials that might result in safety
hazards before permitting pedestrian traffic.
Regular, daily mopping of traffic surfaces should be
done as described in 'STONE FLOORS', below.
In areas where normal care and cleaning prove inadequate, see 'STAIN
REMOVAL', at the bottom of this page.
rmal 'Housekeeping' maintenance of a honed finish involves as-needed washing
with clean, potable water and neutral(pH-7), mildly abrasive other thick liquid
cleaners and chlorine-bleach type scouring powders are ideal for this purpose.
Simply mix in clean water according to manufacturer's directions.
Caution:
Bleach should not be used on dark colored stones because it may lighten their
color.
Surfaces should be first wetted with hot, clean water. Then, using a mildly
abrasive, alkaline cleaner and a medium bristle brush, wash in overlapping,
swirling strokes. Suds build-up can be left to stand for several minutes to
permit the bleaching agents to work on stains and dirts. On vertical surfaces,
always work from bottom-to top.
Rinse thoroughly then wipe dry with cotton, cotton flannel, burlap, or chamois
skin. Wipe well to avoid streaks.
If further cleaning is needed, make a paste to the consistency of syrup using a
mildly abrasive alkaline cleaning powder and clean, potable water. Apply the
paste uniformly over the surface with a broad brush and allow to stand until
dry. Then, use a medium bristle brush with additional water and scrub the
surface vigorously(Additional cleaning powder may be added at this point).
Rinse thoroughly and dry as described above.
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3. STONE
FLOORS
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3.1 Description |
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'Stone Floors' broadly include
any oned finish stone that is a traffic surface. |
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3.2 Uses |
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The 'Stone Floors' category
includes treads, floors, and thresholds. |
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3.3 Normal
Maintenance |
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Honed finish floors, treads,
and thresholds subjected to traffic, should be regularly mopped or scrubbed in
a manner that will ne6t leave a hazardous, slippery film.
Stone surfaces should be first wetted whith hot, clean water. Lightly sprinkle
an abrasive cleaner(i.e.: a chlorine-bleaching type household scouring cleaner.
Do not use bleaches on dark-colored stone) over the wet stone, or put on-to-two
handfuls into a pail of 2-3 gallons of hot clean water. Using a scrubbing
motion, mop the stone surfaces with this solution(or with clean hot water if
cleaner is sprinkled directly on the stone). Rinse thoroughhly with clean hot
water and dry with mop or cloths. Power scrubbers(RPM less than 375) can also
be used for cleaning as described above. |
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3.4 Maintenance
Problems - Preventions and Cures |
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Generally, follow guidelines
presented in paragraph 'Maintenance Problems' for 'HONED
INTERIOR STONE'.
See 'STAIN REMOVAL' section below for areas that
do not respond satisfactorily to normal housekeeping procedures. |
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3.5 Special
Conditions and Procedures |
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Often, it is desirable to
protect special interior areas and to enhance the coloration of honed stone in
areas where a polished finish is not practical. In such cases, sealers may be
applied after the stone has been cleaned to minimize maintenance and prevent
staining around toilets and urinals, and in food preparation areas or
entrances.
Sealers should only be applied to clean interior stone. Follow the
manufacturer's direction for application and subsequent maintenance.
In all cases, sealers should be of a clear, hard-finish type suitable for
traffic surfaces, and definitely 'non-yellowing'. Do not use soft-finish waxes,
paste wax, or resins. These oatings collect dirt and grit. Some acrylic base,
liquid floor 'waxes' advertised as 'non-yellowing' can be used in place of
'permanent' sealers, but may give limited life. |
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4. EXTERIOR
STONE
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4.1 Description |
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'Exterior Stone' is a general
term denoting a stone installed in a situation where temperature, moisture, and
air-borne contaminants are regulated primarily or solely by the forces of
nature. |
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4.2 Uses |
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Exterior stone can be used in a
honed, textured, or a polished finish in any mode in an exterior environment.
However, the use of a polished finish marble or limestone is discouraged for
exterior applications due to susceptibility to damage by air-borne acids and
wind-driven dust. |
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4.3 Normal
Maintenance |
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In accessible areas, routinely
follow maintenance procedures as specified in 'Normal Maintenance' secitons for
'POLISHED INTERIOR STONE', or 'HONED
STONE', as applicable. The large expanses of stone traditionally
found on exterior multi-story installations generally will make it impractical
or uneconomical to perform housekeeping maintenance on a frequent basis.
However, such large installations should be give periodic overall cleaning
consistent with economy, or as necessary to remove accumulated
pollutants.
The cleaning of multi-story installations should only be done by qualified
contractors who have the craftsmen, equipment, resources, and technical
expertise to execute the cleaning work properly, as well as perform any repair,
resetting, or repointing that may be found necessary during the initial
inspection. Consult the listings of MIA Members to obtain the required
services.
Generally, the processes used in multi-story cleaning will be similar to normal
procedures, except that pumps for wash and rinse water should be employed to
economize on the amount of time required due to the inherent high costs of
labor and support equipment necessary to the undertaking. |
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5. SPECIALTY
FINISHES
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5.1 Description |
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Specialty finishes are surface
finishes other than 'polished' or 'honed' and often are provided as specialty
treatments under specific trade names. Such treatments usually are patented or
copyrighted products of the supplying contractor.
Examples of such specialty finishes are polymer coatings, texturing treatments,
and a variety of chemically-produced surface conditions. |
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5.2 Uses |
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Specialty finishes are
provided to meet the re-equipments of service under which traditional polished,
textured, or honed finishes prove inadequate, are subjected to unusual hazards,
or do not satisfy the ever-broadening requirements of designers.
Examples of the applications of specialty finishes are polymer coatings for
liquor-dispensing and food-service top, or textured surfaces for special
lighting effects, decor enhancement, graffiti resistance, and maintenance
reduction. |
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5.3 Normal
Maintenance |
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Consult literature or
instructions furnished by the supplying contractor for care and remedicial
measures pertinent to the specific specialty finish(Always request this
information when the installation is first made). |
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6. SPECIAL
CLEANING PROCEDURES
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6.1 General Poultice Method |
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Note: Marble, limestone,
travertine and onyx are calcareous stones, alkalinic in nature. Acids, such as
those contained in milk, wine and beer, fruit juices, and vinegar, will etch a
polished finish. Strong alkalies, such as ammonia, will 'burn' a polished
finish. Most confuse the etch and 'burn' marks with stains, The following
procedures are given for the removal of staining. Contact a MIA Member
regarding repolishing of etched or 'burned' surfaces. |
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6.2 Description |
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The 'General Poultice Method'
is a special cleaning procedure for the removal of deep-seated, timeset dirt
and grime. The poultice may be applied to honed, sandfinished, or polished
stone, and is particularly useful on intricate carvings, mouldings, and other
detailing difficult to scrub.
The general poultice is essentially a strong cleaner, applied by way of a
holding medium, that concentrates its effort over a period of time. |
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6.3 Uses |
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The poultice is used primarily
to attack and reduce heavy deposits of normal soiling, or to remove stains
resulting from the action of moisture on normal soiling.
For specific stains, i.e. stains whereof the origin is known, See 'STAIN
REMOVAL' section, below. |
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6.4 Execution |
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Mix kaolin or Fuller's earth
with a common laundry bleach or a 6% solution of hydrogen peroxide to form a
paste the consistency of oatmeal or cake icing(For estimating purposes, figure
a consumption rate of one pound of paste per square foot of surface).
Moisten the surface of the stone with the same liquid which made the paste,
wetting the stone beyond the extent of the stained areas.
Apply the poultice paste to the stone with a wood or plastic spatula, insuring
a uniform coat about ¼-inch thick. Cover the entire area to be cleaned and
somewhat beyond, to prevent the soil from being forces into clean stone. Insure
the poultice is in full contact with the stone, with no entrapped air pockets
or voids.
Tape plastic sheeting over the poulticed area to prevent quick drying-out and
allow it to act for 48 hours.
After this standing period, dampen the poultice with clean, cool water to
prevent undue dust generation. Remove the poultice with a wood or plastic
spatula to avoid scratching, Rinse the cleaned area thoroughly with clean
water; blot or wipe off excess water; allow the work to dry.
When water-spotting has disappeared from complete drying, inspect for remaining
soil. A second poultice application may be necessary.
CAUTION: White, non-leaded gasoline may be
used in this method instead of bleach. However, it should not be used in closed
spaces and should be used only by experienced applicators. Laymen should avoid
the use of flammable or explosive liquids in cleaning operations.
CAUTION: Do not use a poultice containing
additives other than water on dark colored stone. If white veins in a dark
colored stone have turned yellow with age, for example, apply a poultice made
of kaolin and water.
Several 'Marble Poultice' base powders are currently available to commercial
users. These powders require only the addition of plain water for activation,
are not acidic, and will prove convenient and effective in many cases. |
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7. STAIN
REMOVAL
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7.1 General |
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Adherence to normal care and
maintenance procedures should help prevent staining. But, should accident or
neglect contribute to staining, necessary remedial measures will be completely
different from general cleaning and will usually require persistence to achieve
results.
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When the source of the stain is
not known, the 'Poultice Method' should be tried first. If this method is
ineffective, follow specific remedies as explained below, attempting each in
turn until results are achieved. Please note CAUTION against the
application of poultice containing additives other than water on dark colored
stone.
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Stains in stone will generally
be caused by one of three major category sources: organic materials, metallic
materials, or oils and greases.
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7.2 Execution -
Organic Stains |
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Most organic(carbon-oxygen
based) stains require an oxidizing agent treatment, and generally will respond
in varying degrees to hydrogen peroxide or chlorine bleach treatment and
poultices. Hydrogen peroxide(H2O2) should be used in a 6%
hair-bleaching solution. Chlorine bleaches should be used in commercially
available strengths as sold for laundry and household use.
CAUTION: Do Not use bleach and ammonia together. Their
combination produces TOXIC GASES!
CAUTION: Do Not use a poultice containing bleach
on dark-colored stone.
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Excelsior, leaves, bark, bird
droppings, and foods may cause pinkish-brown stains in the presence of
moisture. Outdoors, with the sources removed, normal sun and rain action will
generally bleach out the stains. Indoors, use hydrogen peroxide or chlorine
bleach soaked in a blotter or sponge, or mixed with kaolin or Fuller's earth as
a poultice. |
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Tobacco stains are usually
receptive to the same treatment described above. |
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Urine stains, if long-seated
due to neglect, should be attacked with a strong chlorine-bleach poultice.
Areas around urinals and water closets should be lightly sprinkled with a
chlorine-bleaching powder cleanser, dampened, and left overnight periodically
as a preventive measure.
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Lodine stains will usually fade
of their own accord with time. To hasten fading, apply a poultice of
isopropyl(rubbing) alcohol((CH3)2CH); methyl(wood)
alcohol(CH3OH), or ethyl(grain) alcohol(C2H5OH). |
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Fire and smoke stains, caused
by burning wood or paper, can be removed with a commercially available
'Fireplace Cleaner' or by washing with a solution of caustic soda(sodium
hydroxide)(NaOh).
NOTE: As caustic soda is very corrosive, extreme care must be taken to protect
skin, eyes, and clothing from burns. Rinse the area well with clean, cool water
after using either of these remedies.
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7.3 Execution -
Metallic Stains |
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Metallic Stains chemically
required treatment with a reduction agent, i.e. an agent that will attack the
metallic salts and reduce them to soluble, colorless salts that can be rinsed
away or drawn out by poultices.
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Iron(Ferrous and Ferric)
Stains:
These generally appear as red-brown stains resembling rust, and result from
the action of moisture on adjacent or embedded iron or steel.
Before attempting the removal of this stain, cure the cause. That is, clean and
paint accessible ferrous items to prevent oversplash and run-off onto the
stone. If possible, remove the sources of moisture to prevent further oxidation
of the iron or steel. Where the iron or steel is embedded in stone little can
be done to prevent a continuation of oxidation and resultant staining, except
to cut off the moisture supply to the metal.
Superficial, fresh stains will usually come off with a vigorous scrubbing.
Seated stains may be removed by the application of a 'Naval Jelly' or other
commercial 'Rust Remover,' following manufacturer's directions for use. If
these remedies fail, often abrasion with a scouring powder followed by a second
application of the commercial rust remover will remove the stain.
Should this fail, apply a poultice for not more than ½-hour using either sodium
hydrosulphite(NaHSO4) or sodium hypochlorite(NaCIO). (These
chemicals are not usually available to the layman, which limits their
application in household remedies.) Flush with a sodium citrate solution.
Unfortunately, deep seated, rusty stains caused by prolonged neglect or from
embedded metal(anchors, ties, etc.) may not be removable by any means.
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Copper and Bronze(Cuprous and
Cupric) Stains:
These stains appear as green or muddy-brown colorations and result from the
action of moisture on nearby or embedded bronze, copper and brass items.
Before attempting stain removal, cure the cause. Clean attached or nearby metal
items and coat them with a quick drying, clear coating such as varnish,
shellac, or a plastic spray-on/brush-on coating. If possible, remove sources of
moisture to prevent further oxidation of the cuprous metal. When the source of
stain is an embedded anchor, tie, or other device, the only remedy is to cut
off the moisture at its source.
Coating would be impossible.
After elimination the moisture or protectively sealing the metal, attack the
stain with this poultice; mix a thick paste the consistency of peanut butter,
composed of kaolin or Fuller's earth, ammonia, or sal ammonia(ammonium
chloride)(NH4CL), (which can be purchased at most pharmacies). If
sal ammonia is not available, a fairly effective 'Field Expedient' is a
solution of household ammonia and table salt mixed in equal quantities into the
poultice base. Apply the poultice thickly over the entire stain, beyond the
limits of the stain, and leave it until dry. Remove with a non-metallic spatula
and rinse thoroughly. Cover with plastic and allow to dry. Repeat if necessary.
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Lead:
Stains caused by lead will appear as yellow or orange colorations and may
appear at a distance from the source. There is no use attacking the stain if
the source cannot be removed, inasmuch as lead is virtually non-reactive to
chemicals, and any lead salts that may form will be extremely difficult to
reduce.
Generally, the stains will fade in time as a result of atmospheric action if
the source is removed.
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Ink:
Inks are frequently formulated from some metallic salts, and the stains
caused by inks should be attacked with household ammonia. Often, a bleaching
poultice will be needed to remove any remaining coloration.
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7.4 Execution -
Oil and Grease Stains |
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Oil, grease, linseed oil, and
perspiration stains normally must be dissolved chemically so the source of the
stain can be flushed or rinsed away.
CAUTION:
Acetone(dimethyl ketone)((CH3)2CO) is widely
available solvent that produces good results on most oils and greases. Mineral
spirits and white(unleaded) gasoline can be used as substitutes for acetone. However,
the use of flammable or explosive liquids in cleaning operations by
inexperienced applicators should be avoided.
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After removing as much of the
source of the stain as is possible, make a poultice, or saturate a white
blotter with the solvent, and apply over the remaining stain, covering beyond
the stain limits. Allow the solvent to dry, then remove the poultice and rinse
with water. Repeat if necessary.
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Do not use solvents containing
color agents or oils. Avoid these solvents: turpentine, leaded gasoline, and
kerosene.
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7.5 Execution -
Paint and Paint-Stain Removal |
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Paint should be removed only
by use of a commercial-type 'heavy liquid' paint stripper available from
hardware stores and paint centers. Such strippers are normally hydroxide types,
that is, they contain caustic soda or lye. DO NOT USE ACIDS OR FLAME TOOLS to
strip paint from stone.
Follow manufacturer's directions for use of these products, taking care to
flush profusely with clean water after use. Use only wood or plastic scrapers
and stiff fibre or jute brushes for removing the sludge and curdled paint.
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Normally, latex and acrylic
paints will not cause staining. Oil-based paints, linseed oil putty, and
'Architectural Grade' caulks and sealants may cause oily stains. |
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When removing paint and paint
stains from vertical stone surfaces, take care to protect unpainted stone from
run-off. If oil-based paint is accidentally dripped or overrun, remove
immediately with a clean cloth followed at once by wiping with a cloth bearing
acetone or mineral spirits to preclude oil-staining. Latex paint drips should
be wiped off immediately with a damp cloth.
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Marble Institute of America
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8. COUNTERTOPS - Special
Care: Granite
Scratching
Different granites will have different levels of resistance toward staining and
scratching; ask your designer or sales associate about the characteristics of
your particular material. While cutting directly on granite surfaces will not
affect the large majority of granites, cutting boards are recommended to avoid
quickly dulling knives. Repeated use of a knife in the same place on a granite
countertop can eventually wear down the polish.
Staining
Lighter colored granites will be more prone to staining than darker ones.
Wiping spills immediately will help avoid most potential staining. To help
repel stains, granite is sealed with a penetrating sealer (stone impregnator)
before installation. We recommend periodically re-sealing granite according to
the sealer's instructions. Products such as coffee, red wine, cooking oils,
butter, lemon juice, tomatoes, and anything else acidic should be wiped off the
countertop as soon as possible. Take care to use the proper cleaning agents;
those that are ammonia based can etch the granite and dull its polish.
Burning
Hot pots may be set directly on granite with no potential for the stone to show
burn marks. Take caution after removing a hot pot from a stone surface, as the
stone will absorb heat from the pot and may be hot to the touch.
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9.
COUNTERTOPS - Special Care: Marble
Scratching
Marble is a delicate material that has care guidelines similar to that of a
fine piece of wood. It is not recommended for use in kitchens or in high
traffic areas. Cutting directly on marble will produce scratches. Trivets and
placemats should be used under all ceramic, china, and other vessels to reduce
the possibility of scratching.
Staining
Coasters and placemats should be used to prevent staining for all drinking
glasses or dishes, including water glasses, as marble is susceptible to all
types of stains including water rings. Avoid leaving any spilled substances on
marble for any period of time to reduce staining (including juices, alcoholic
beverages, oils, greases, cosmetics, and standing water). Marble is sealed with
a penetrating sealer to help prevent the absorption of stains into the stone.
It is recommended that marble be resealed periodically with a penetrating stone
sealer on all horizontal surfaces. Sealing is not necessary for vertical
surfaces such as fireplace surrounds.
Etching
Marble is a calcareous stones and is acid sensitive. Calcareous stones are
readily dissolved in acid; therefore acidic products, such as lemon or tomato
juice should not be used on marbles. These will cause the stone to etch - the
surface finish will dull and change texture. Wiping spills immediately and
taking caution to use only cleansers specified for stone will help avoid
etching your marble.
Burning
Marble does have the potential to burn, so hot pots and pans should not be set
directly on marble countertops. Use trivets, potholders and placemats to
protect marble surfaces.
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10.
COUNTERTOPS - Special Care: Limestone
Scratching
Limestone is a relatively soft stone that will be susceptible to scratching.
Limestone should be protected from scratching by using cutting boards for
knives. Trivets and placemats should be used under all ceramic, china, and
other vessels to prevent the possibility of scratching.
Staining
Limestone is more porous than many natural stone countertop materials and is
extremely susceptible to staining. Luck Stone treats all limestone countertops
with a penetrating stone sealer before installation, a process that helps
protect the stone from staining. Coasters and placemats should be used to
prevent staining for all drinking glasses or dishes, including water glasses.
Avoid leaving any spilled substances on limestone for even a short period of
time to reduce the chance of staining (including juices, alcoholic beverages,
oils, greases, cosmetics, and standing water). It is recommended that limestone
be periodically resealed with a penetrating stone sealer to help reduce
staining.
Etching
Limestones, like marble and other calcareous stones, are referred to as acid
sensitive. Calcareous stones are readily dissolved in acid; therefore acidic
products, such as lemon or tomato juice should not be used on limestones and
marbles. These will cause limestone to etch - the surface finish will dull and
change texture. Wiping spills immediately and taking caution to use only
cleansers specified for limestone will help avoid etching your countertop.
Burning
Limestone does have the potential to burn, so hot pots and pans should not be
set directly on countertops. Use trivets, potholders and placemats to protect
limestone surfaces.
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11.
COUNTERTOPS - Special Care: Travertine
Scratching
Travertine is a type of limestone, making it a relatively soft stone that will
be susceptible to scratching. Travertine should be protected from scratching by
using cutting boards for knives, and using trivets and placemats under all
ceramic, china, and other vessels to reduce the possibility of scratching.
Staining
Travertine is more porous than many natural stone countertop materials and is
extremely susceptible to staining. Luck Stone treats all travertine countertops
with a penetrating stone sealer before installation, a process that helps
protect the stone from staining. Coasters and placemats should be used to
prevent staining for all drinking glasses or dishes, including water glasses.
Avoid leaving any spilled substances on travertine for any period of time to
prevent stains (including juices, alcoholic beverages, oils, greases,
cosmetics, and standing water). It is recommended that travertine be resealed
periodically with a penetrating stone sealer to help reduce staining.
Etching
Travertines, like marble and other calcareous stones, are referred to as acid
sensitive. Calcareous stones are readily dissolved in acid; therefore acidic
products, such as lemon or tomato juice should not be used on limestones and
marbles. These will cause travertine to etch - the surface finish will dull and
change texture. Wiping spills immediately and taking caution to use only
cleansers specified for travertine will help avoid etching your countertop.
Burning
Travertine does have the potential to burn, so hot pots and pans should not be
set directly on marble countertops. Use trivets, potholders and placemats to
protect travertine surfaces.
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12.
COUNTERTOPS - Special Care: Soapstone
Scratching
Soapstone is a relatively soft stone that will be susceptible to scratching.
Using cutting boards with knives, and avoiding abrasive cleansers and scraping
heavy pots and pans along the surface will help reduce scratching. Soapstone
has the unique characteristic that scratches that do occur may be buffed out
with a fine grit (400 to 300) sandpaper, and then touched up with some mineral
oil. Deeper scratches may require use of heavier grit sandpaper. If so, start
with the heavier paper, and gradually work up to the finest grit to create a
finish consistent with the rest of the countertop. Because soapstone is softer
than many other natural stone countertops it may have a tendency to chip or
crack more easily. Standing on soapstone countertops or placing excessive
weight on them is highly discouraged to preserve the stone's structural
integrity.
Staining
Soapstone is one of the only natural materials that can be considered nearly
impenetrable, and will not absorb stains in the same way as other natural stone
surfaces. Soapstone will discolor when a liquid makes contact with its surface;
however, liquids will evaporate out of the stone, leaving no stain behind.
Soapstone requires regular oiling to maintain its maximum beauty and help keep
a consistent color throughout.
Soapstone's natural color is a grayish blue tone. However, it can be treated
with mineral or linseed oil to create the darker, richer color that many owners
prefer and to help ward against showing scratches. If you choose not to oil
your countertop, its color will darken over time, taking on a natural patina,
especially in areas of high use. While it is up to the homeowner to determine
how often they would like to oil their countertops, we suggest the following
schedule for applying mineral or linseed oil:
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Week 1: Two applications
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Weeks 2 through 4: One application per week
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Weeks 5 through 9: One application per two weeks
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Apply monthly up to 18 months; as time goes on, you will need to oil the
countertops less and less frequently, noticing that the deep color will last
longer between applications. Oiling the countertop at least twice per year is
recommended after the initial 18 month period of care.
To apply mineral or linseed oil, simply wipe the oil over the entire countertop
and then wipe off with a clean cotton cloth. The cloth may be stored in a
plastic bag to be used for future applications or for touch ups when buffing
out scratches. Mineral and linseed oil can be found at many drug and hardware
stores.
Burning
Hot pots may be set directly on soapstone with no potential for the stone to
show burn marks. Take caution after removing a hot pot from a surface, as the
stone will absorb heat from the pot and may be hot to the touch.
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